It was different. That’s the strongest statement to reflect on Elie Saab’s latest couture collection. Inspired by India along with the fashion codes of both the Victoria and the Edwardian era, this collection takes us on a journey where the contrast between the Orient and the Occident is perfectly translated.
I loved how everything about the simple set-up made us travel before the kick-off of the show. An adaptation of the Indian jungles with dust on the floor and a lot of green made us feel we’re wandering deeper into the Indian countryside.
I loved how the patterns of fine lace are strongly embroidered and incrusted with statement beads creating beautiful motifs of jasmine, palm tree foliage and bougainvillea. As for the color palette, it goes from white, argile, grey, English rose to tundra and blue.
At first encounter, fabrics adapt to the change in climate, shifting to silk chiffon and crêpe georgette, relaxing within their new and expansive environment. Linear panels flow from a softly defined waistline, recalling the volumes of a Victorian bustle. Columnar silhouettes are adapted by asymmetry and draping.
One of the most inspiring shift was the update giving to the traditional sari, creating a harmony between the traditional evening gown and the typical Indian sari, I’m in love.
I can’t but end my article to focus on the accessories, they were incredible. The studded hats, the simple flats and the chunky boots with metal jewelry reflect an explorer mood, giving the collection a strong adventurous hint. Satchel bags were my personal favorite, added on several looks and sometimes with short dresses. The strong headpieces reminded us of the British and English royalties.