Happy Wednesday beautiful ones! As you have learnt in my round-up of my experience at Who’s Next/Premiere Classe, I’m very happy to be sharing with you a couple of interviews with some of the designers that caught my eyes during the fashion trade. My ‘coup de coeur’ was definitely Dhurv Kapoor. After growing up in India and studying at Marangoni in Milan, Dhurv went back to New Delhi and launched his eponym brand. He just won the Vogue Indian fashion fund and here’s a little interview for you to discover more!
LS: When did you start?
DK: I’ve always wanted to be a designer. I can roughly say that I became sure of that when I was 14 years ago. It was first mostly about jewelry and then it became all about fashion. I went to study ready-to-wear fashion design in Milan at Marangoni and it was truly a life-changing experience. After that, I went to work with Etro for some time in Milan before moving back to New Delhi. In 2013, we properly launched the brand and our first showcase was in 2014.
LS: Where would you consider your brand to be based?
DK: We’re actually based in New Delhi where it all started. If we have buyers from overseas, it also happens there, especially during New Delhi fashion week. Gradually, we want to be having point of sales all across the world and of course other offices.
LS: So, I heard that you actually won the Vogue India Fashion Fund. This is amazing!! Please tell me more about it.
DK: Yes, I did! This was a huge push. It was a six-months long competition. There were different designers participating and we had to present a collection in front of a jury composed of important fashion Indian figures. Some of the toughest judges you could think of! They were about 20! Then, we moved to the second round and they finally picked a finalist.
LS: That’s impressive! What was the prize exactly about?
DK: We got financial support first and they offer you the chance to present your very own fashion show, which is actually amazing. This show is usually worth a production of about $100,000. You can imagine the exposure it gave me! You also get so many features in more magazines and on social media. It also encourages other Vogue teams to come to meet us, for example, we got the visit of Vogue Italian yesterday which is great!
LS: How many point of sales do you have up till now?
DK: We’re all across India and starting next season, hopefully in London and Milan. We’re still very new and we need a couple of other seasons to grow even more.
LS: What’s your average retail price:
DK: I can roughly say that our most expensive piece would be around $350.
LS: That’s really great considering the work of fabrics! So tell me, what’s the inspiration behind this FW16 collection? I can see coats, beadings, metallics, different moods.
DK: I always try to start with a great selection of fabrics. I pick simple ones that we then heavily work on in order to get greater results, I love the work of textures. For example, the metallic silver fabric of this collection was melted and we used three layers of this melted fabric to put it together before creating the designs. So most of our fabrics, especially the thicker ones are made by our atelier.
LS: And regarding the theme of the collection, do you focus on something specific every-time or do you have a different approach?
DK: I’m mostly inspired by how I would love to see today’s woman. I want to think about the intelligent, powerful, independent and self-sufficient lady. This is the one I always want to portray. You know, some of my designs demand a certain attitude. For example, in this skirt you cannot just randomly sit, I would almost say that you would look amazing in it if you’re always standing. It’s very challenging. Sometimes, we have clients that try such pieces on and I’ve noticed that when they’re not very confident about their bodies and how they portray themselves, they can’t feel completely at ease. Only specific kind of women can pull it off, and I’m fine with that. I’m convinced by my vision.
LS: I love the message you’re trying to deliver through your designs, for me, today’s fashion is also all about women empowerment. Did you start working on your summer collection?
Yes, normally we pick one color from the previous season to carry it to the next one and we work on much brighter palette.
LS: And, how are you liking your first experience at Who’s Next/Premiere classe?
DK: Honestly, it’s great and I love how it’s organized. I will definitely keep coming in order to affirm my presence and continuously open up to new market. It’s our first season here and it’s always very satisfying.
LS: In the Middle-East, I’m also sure you will get to have a big audience. Do you target the region?
DK: I have a lot of friends from the Middle-East, especially from Lebanon. I got the chance to meet them during my studies at Marangoni and of course, the Middle-East is on my radar!
LS: Thank you Dhurv, can’t wait to see you next season. Keep rocking it.
Photography credit: Gabriele Correddu @gabrielmisfire
Location: Hotel Le Molitor, Paris, France