Hands down, one of my favorite Valentino couture collections ever. Once more, with this collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli sublime the woman and place her as the protagonist, the creature who triggers the process of elevation from love to salvation and passion.
For this, the creative directors were inspired by classic legends (Romeo&Juliet), contemporary poetry, symbolism, pop music, Dantesque images. For the setting, they went for the ideal setting of the biography of Marc Chagall, the artist of Russian origin who later became a French citizen. Hence, we spot several details like the fringes on the jackets, the heavy use of the red color and the embroideries of the coats reminding us of the Russian folklore.
Through his iconography, Chagall celebrates the power of love despite everything in life. I love that this collection is positive, taking us away from the negative connotations sometimes linked to love.
In this collection, the silhouette of the woman is celebrated, elongated with a stronger emphasis on the waist, making it look beautifully thin. The use of natural linens, gauze, muslin and velvet looked breathtaking with verses from poems beautifully layered on several gowns. My favorites were the rainbow and cloud dresses, the use of embellishments such as verses, cryptograms, motifs and other amorous designs made all the difference. Oh and the black angel that opened the show, of course. Last but not least, the palette of color was mostly about elemental hues: shades of ecru and off-white, blue, red and light blue. A little bit of gold and silver.
If we had to choose a way through which fashion would be pure and poetic, I would pick any gown from this Valentino SS15 collection. It’s simply art.