Balmain, Ready-To-Wear, SS15:
Rousteing simply put it as a show that was about “pushing the boundaries of sex”. To my satisfaction, this show didn’t always read as sexy. Yes, there was a lot of skin but not transparencies. I liked the sheer nylon knits, the plissé mousseline and the plastic inset on the hem of a mini skirt. My favorite look was the black bandage dress with cutouts that bisected the midriff and the very sensual plunge-front dress with shirt red pants. The allover crystals’ dresses were also exquisite. Once more, its a very fierce woman for Balmain but that Rousteing is starting to slightly soften with his new choices of fabrics and cuts.
Dior, Ready-To-Wear, SS15:
Extending his vision of the Dior couture show presented in July, Simons once more tried to find “the future in the far past”. The white looks were lovely but my favorite looks were the ones where color was involved. The orange satin linen gilet that closed the show is to die-for. When he paired the gilet with bermuda shorts, I was immediately taken even farther in the past, it’s a look I didn’t expect seeing back that early. I’m honestly starting to love the direction Simons is taking the Dior woman to. It is like his ideas for the future are floating on a sea of fashion past, beautiful classics brought together with precision for a beautiful silhouette.
Lanvin, Ready-To-Wear, SS15:
So I discovered few days back that Alber Elbaz insists that he knows a dress is working when he looks into a model’s face and sees her face, not the dress. This gorgeous show celebrated the 125th anniversary of the house of Lanvin, from Jeanne Lanvin’s career as the first lifestyle designer to the looks Elbaz’s shows have been creating over the years. Lanvin might be one of my favorite brands but believe me, I’m not being biased about this show, it was truly something else: strong, simple and dramatic. It was all about the Lanvin woman. I loved the: slip-dresses, fractured laces, jersey t-shirt dresses, shimmers, prints and the dark brocades. Definitely, up till now, the best show of the season. Chapeau bas!
Jean Paul Gaultier presented his last pret-a-porter show ever on Friday, as he announced that he will be focusing on his haute couture and perfume collections. The show was presented at one of Paris’ biggest cinemas, a stand was serving champagne and boxes of popcorn; cameras were following all the celebrities who were here to bid goodbye to the designer’s last ready-to-wear show: Alber Elbaz, Rick Owens, Catherine Deneuve, Jeremy Scott, Gareth Pugh and more. We can strongly say that JPG completely outdid himself by presenting his iconic items: trenchcoats, corsets and more. Also, everyone went on stage: Madonna, Dita Von Teese and more. The concept of the show was “Election de Miss Jean Paul Gaultier 2015”, dividing into different sections the show in order to present JPG’s most famous works: miss femme de footballeur, miss redactrice en chef, etc.
As for when it came to pick the winner, the competition came down to Anna Cleveland and Coco Rocha, in Gaultier’s iconic cone-bra corset dresses. Coco won, but Anna wrenched the crown for herself, and a shower of gold confetti fell as the designer took his trademark running bow. I’m so happy to have been able to see his ready to wear show last season, I have tears in my eyes as I write these words, it is the end of an era but the huge smile Gaultier had on when he left the stage reminds us that we’ve got the couture week to witness his creativity twice a year.
Stay tuned for more of my Paris Fashion Week reviews tomorrow on the blog.